Mixing Oil Paints

Mixing Oil Paints
by: Craig Whitaker [ MONGO_MEL ] [ ALL BY THIS AUTHOR ]




Introductions
Recently in the Figure Forum, Tin Can requested a list of color mixes that people use for painting with oil paints. When I responded with some of the mixes I have used, he suggested that I submit it to Armorama as an article. What I have done here is add photographs of the figures that have the listed color mix. This is only what worked for me. There are a lot of better painters out there with a lot of better ideas.

The term “paint for average” means that I paint the entire area with this color mix. Then, while the paint is wet, I paint in the shadows and blend to suit. Then I paint the highlights and blend to suit. After the paint is dry, I sometimes go back and redo the shadows and highlights, using a very small amount of the same paints and get more of a “glazing” effect.

I haven’t listed quantities or proportions for mixing because I don’t keep track of them. I just keep mixing until it looks right to me. Sometimes a mix will look fine on the palette paper, but look terrible on the figure. When this happens, I try to fix it on the figure by adding small dots of the needed color and blending it throughout. If that doesn’t work, I just wipe it off and start over.


- Craig Whitaker
Note: Unless noted, all paints are Winsor & Newton.


Dark Blue Grey (helmet)

A: Undercoat with black (can be acrylic).
B: Mix Payne's Grey with T. White to a dark blue/gray. Paint for average.
C: Paint shadows with straight Payne's Grey.
D: Add more T. White to mix “B” to a medium blue/grey. Highlight with this mix.

German Field Grey

A: Undercoat with your favorite Field Grey model paint (I used Andrea brand)
B: Mix the following colors and paint for average:
Mix Blue/Black, Winsor Blue & Cadmium Yellow to a medium dark blue green shade. Lighten with T. White to match undercoat.
C: Shadow with Blue/Black.
D: Highlight with T. White

Note: Blue/Black is a paint from W&N, not a mix of 2 paints.
Distressed Brown Leather

A: Over white primer or undercoat, paint a thin layer of Mars Brown.
B: Blend in an irregular pattern of Burnt Umber for the distressed look.
C: Shadow with Burnt Umber
D: Highlight with T. White.


Wood Grain

A: Over white primer or undercoat, paint a thin layer of Burnt Sienna.
B: Paint in thin, irregular lines on Burnt Umber to represent the grain. Gently
blend this into the Burnt Sienna. No not over blend or the grain will disappear!
C: When dry, apply a wash on Burnt Umber.
Smooth Leather

A; Mars Brown for average.
B: Shadow with Burnt Sienna, use Burnt Umber for deepest shadows.
C: Highlight with T. White.

Forrest Green (Not Olive drab)

A: Mix Mars Black with Cad. Yellow to a medium dark green. Paint for average.
B: Add more Mars Black to above mix and use for shadows. Use straight Mars Black for deepest shadows.
C: Highlight with T. White.

Black

A: Mix Mars Black with Titanium White to a dark gray. Paint for average.
B: Paint shadows with Mars Black.
C: Highlight with small amounts of T. White
Steel Metallic

A: Undercoat with Payne's Grey or Mars Black.
B: Mix Payne's Grey with Silver. Brush over tops of chain mail (like dry brushing).
C: Continue highlighting while still wet using straight Silver.
Steel (Used on chest plate on Mercenary bust below)

A: Undercoat with black.
B: Mix a small amount of Silver Printers Ink into Mars Black. Add 1 or 2 drops of drying agent. Paint for average. Allow to dry.
C: When dry, apply a glaze coat of Payne's Grey to tone down the brightness of the silver. Allow to dry.
D: When dry, shadow with Mars Black.
E: Highlight with mix “B”. Allow to dry.
F: Apply a very thin wash of Brown Madder Alizarin for a worn, weathered look.
White (dirty, dingy look)

A: Undercoat with Liquitex Parchment. Allow to dry.
B: Recoat with Parchment. While still wet, add Raw Umber for shadows. Blend this throughout. This should darken the overall color of the Parchment. Allow to dry
C: When dry, shadow with Raw Umber.
D: Highlight with Parchment.
E: Highest highlights with T. White.

Khaki (brownish gray tone)

A: Mix Liquitex brand Parchment with Raw Umber to a medium shade of khaki. Paint for average.
B: Shadow with Raw Umber.
C: Highlight with Parchment. Highest highlights with T. White.

Brass

A: Mix a small amount of Gold Printers Ink into Burnt Umber. Add 1 or 2 drops of drying agent. Paint for average. Allow to dry.
B: When dry, apply a wash of Burnt Sienna.
C: Shadow with Burnt Umber.
Khaki (gray tone) (Can be used for an off white color)

A: Mix T. White with Raw Umber to a medium gray. Paint for average.
B: Raw Umber for shadows.
C: Highlight with T. White.

Khaki (brown tone) (Used for a light brown uniform - see image below)

A: Mix T. White with Burnt Sienna to a medium brown. Paint for average.
B: Shadow with Burnt Sienna.
C: Highlight with T. White.
Red

A: Undercoat with your favorite red model paint (I used Andrea brand).
B: Using Bright Red, paint for average. Allow to dry completely.
C: Shadow with Brown Madder Alizarin. Allow to dry.
D: Highlight with Cad. Red Medium. Allow to dry.
E: Second highlight with Cad. Red Light. Allow to dry.
F: Highlight on very highest points with T. White. Very Sparingly!

Note: Trying to mix a highlight of red with white results in pink, not a lighter shade of red.
Yellow (earthy tone - see image below)

A: Mix Mars Yellow with T. White to lighten. Undercoat with this mix. Allow to dry.
B: Using same mix, paint for average.
C: Dab in straight Mars Yellow for effect.
D: Shadow with Burnt Sienna.
E: Highlight with T. White.
Gunmetal No. 1

A: Undercoat with Black.
B: Mix Mars Black with Silver to a metallic gray. Highlight with this mix.
C: When dry, I use a “Stabilo” brand pencil to get a shiny metal look.
This is a pencil with a very soft lead that will write on just about any surface you can think of, including glass. It is available at most drafting supply stores. Another option might be to use a carpenters pencil as I believe they also have a very soft lead

Gunmetal No. 2

This method was used on a full scale model of a German Luger pistol.

A: Undercoat with Black
B: Airbrush with Tamiya Gunmetal.
C: When dry, coat entire surface with Mars Black. Then, using a soft cloth, wipe off the Mars Black. Wipe a little harder on the high points to allow the Gunmetal underneath to show thru better
Olive-Drab (faded out appearance)

A: Undercoat with your favorite Olive Drab model paint (I used PollyScale).
B: Coat with Olive Green, let it soak in for a few minutes, then lightly wipe it off. This allows it to remain in the folds and seams of the rucksacks.
C: Mix T. White with a small amount of Olive Green to a pale green shade. While the above is still wet, lightly “dry brush” this mix over the rucksack. and gently blend it with the wet Olive Green stain. Be careful not to lose your shadows doing this.

I realize this is a cheaters method but it was quick and it worked for me

Dark Blue

A: Undercoat with black (can be acrylic).
B: Mix Prussian Blue with a small amount of Mars Black and paint for
average.
C: Paint shadows with Mars Black.
D: Highlight with small amounts of T. White